The issues of an android phone not charging can usually be traced back to a short chain of faults, either at the wall outlet, charger, charger cable, phone port, or battery. To find and fix the fault, you can change one component at a time and see what happens to the phone. The same principle is applied in Google’s troubleshooting support page. In it, you test your adapter and cable on another device, test your adapter with a different cable, check your port for dust and lint, etc.
Just because the charging icon is displayed, does not mean the battery is getting charged. According to Android Authority, “Any time a device is being used to draw power, that will cause some of the energy being collected to be taken away from the phone while it is being charged.” In addition, the menus will vary from maker to maker. The links below are based on Google’s and Samsung’s help pages, so if you are using a different maker, you can look for the same terms in the Settings menu. However, one rule should remain constant: do not insert anything metal into your port. The most common place for debris is the lint stuck inside your port.
The “Wiggle” Problem: Clearing Pocket Lint Safely
If your device does not charge unless plugged into a particular position, or only charges when you tilt the cable at particular angles, dirt may be the first thing you should eliminate from consideration. A dirty connector is one reason why both “lint buildup” and having to “hold your charging cable at [an] angle” are cited in T-Mobile’s charging guidelines as signs of either a dirty connector or bad cable. iFixit explains how it happens when lint and debris are introduced into the connector by being placed in pockets or bags. During the course of multiple charge cycles, the lint and debris build up within the connector, compressing between the end of the cable and the interior of the connector, preventing the cable from fully seating in the connector.
This explains why moving or wiggling the cable provides some temporary relief. The conclusion drawn here is based on iFixit’s description; the application of force on one side of the connector causes the plug connections to come into contact with the phone’s ports, while the compressed debris serves as a barrier to the plug sitting fully in the connector. Reference to the iFixit website also provides a way to verify whether or not your device is experiencing this issue. When the charging cable is plugged into your phone, look at the end of the cable. If it does not sit flat against the bottom of the device, or there is still some visible metal showing on the end of the connection, your port is in need of cleaning. Dust or dirt that gets stuck in the port could also prevent your phone from charging properly. Samsung’s support page adds that dust or debris stuck in the port “may be blocked for safety.”
The first thing to keep in mind is that cleaning inside the phone is not as simple as using a needle, paperclip, or the SIM ejector tool, due to the possibility of moving metal pins (which are often short-circuited) causing electrical damage. iFixit warns that inadvertently bridging pins together can cause electrical damage. So please don’t use these items to clean! Here are the steps to follow which, in order of gentleness to the most labor intensive, should be followed; after each step, connect the phone to a power source until you see whether the connector now sits securely against the socket.
- Turn the phone off. T-Mobile’s cleaning steps start this way, so you aren’t working on a live port.
- Shine a torch into the port. iFixit’s port-cleaning guide starts with a flashlight check for blockages. If you see burn marks or green or white corrosion, iFixit says to skip cleaning and treat it as a damaged port, which the last section covers.
- Tap it out. Google’s Pixel help suggests holding the phone with the port facing down and tapping it gently against your hand to remove debris.
- Use air, not your breath. iFixit’s guide says to put a dust blower or compressed air nozzle at one corner of the port and give a few puffs. It also warns against blowing with your mouth, because moisture from your breath can damage the contacts.
- Brush it gently. The same guide suggests a dry toothbrush, with the bristles around the small black tab in the middle of the port, turned in small circles to break up clumps. A dry wooden or plastic toothpick, which T-Mobile recommends, can lift out a stubborn wad if you go slowly and don’t lever against the middle tab.
There is some disagreement among experts about cleaning with liquids; however, iFixit suggests that the last step should include using a thin swab dipped into isopropyl alcohol 90+% concentration, and allowing it to dry for a few moments before connecting the device to a power source; T-Mobile recommends avoiding all types of liquids. Therefore, you should only try the final cleaning step of using 90% isopropyl if all other methods have failed; and never try to clean your device with water.
If your connector now clicks into place and charges correctly, you’ve located the cause of the issue. However, if it appears to be loose after a thorough cleaning, iFixit says the port itself may have loose connections. If the port is secure and the phone will not charge, the problem may exist further along the connection.
The Swap Test: Isolating the Cable, Brick, or Socket
The process of charging a phone requires that every link in the chain function correctly from the socket to the charger, to the cable, to the port, and to the battery. A single weak link in any one of these components results in the same failure as any other weak link, making it very difficult and expensive to properly diagnose the problem without the proper tools. Even if you swap out multiple cables and chargers, you still do not know which one failed if the phone begins charging after you replace the faulty one. To prevent ineffective parts replacement, keep track of your testing results by documenting them one variable at a time. This will help you to avoid purchasing the wrong part.
A forum post on Android Central demonstrates what happens without proper documentation. The individual stated they had “tried several chargers and tried a new battery,” but still did not know if their logic board was failing or if their charging port was defective. They also questioned if it was caused by a software glitch. This particular post appears to come from an older micro-USB Samsung device, but it serves as a reminder of the confusion that will be prevented through proper documentation of your results.
Get three things right before you start. First, “known-good” means a cable or charger that charges another phone properly right now, not one from the drawer that you hope works. Second, test at the wall. iFixit and Android Authority both say laptop and car USB ports often don’t deliver enough power, and T-Mobile advises plugging straight into a wall outlet instead of a surge protector or extension cord. At home, that means taking the extension box out of the test. Third, stop testing any cable or charger that’s frayed, cracked or burnt. Google’s Pixel guidance says to stop using a cable that looks damaged, and iFixit notes that damaged or low-quality chargers can cause battery damage or even fire.
Watch your screen carefully as you complete each step of the troubleshooting process. The notification from Google that says “check charging accessory” refers to a possible issue with either the charger or cable you used (they may not be compatible with your device) and is a good indication of a slow or non-existent charge. Therefore, take note of this notification for future reference.
| Step | What you change | What stays the same | Record in your log | If the phone now charges normally |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Baseline | Nothing: your usual socket, charger and cable | — | Icon shown? Percentage after 10 minutes? Any notification? | — |
| 2. Socket | Plug into a different wall socket, with no extension box | Your charger and cable | Same three observations | Your first socket, or the extension box, was the problem |
| 3. Charger | Swap in a known-good charger | Your cable, the socket that works | Same three observations | Your charger was the problem |
| 4. Cable | Swap in a known-good cable | Known-good charger and socket | Same three observations | Your cable was the problem |
| 5. Port bypass | Try a wireless charger, if your phone supports it | — | Does it charge wirelessly but not with a cable? | Points to the port rather than the battery |
Wireless charging is a viable option to test your port in step 5. Both T-Mobile and iFixit recommend using a wireless charger because it eliminates testing the port itself. However, if you have a Samsung phone, there is an additional option available. Samsung’s support page describes a Phone diagnostics test in the Samsung Members app, with separate Cable charging, Wireless charging and Battery status checks, and says it helps identify whether the problem is the cable, wireless charging or the battery.
Not every charger that fails to deliver faster product charging speeds is defective. According to Android Authority, many older model chargers do not provide maximum charging speeds to the newer models of phones. iFixit adds that fast charging normally runs from about 18W to 65W, and that some cheaper chargers advertise fast charging without delivering it. Always check for the wattage rating of a suspected malfunctioning charger before calling it defective.
Once your log is filled in, work through it like this:
- It charged after one swap. The part you swapped out is the faulty one. Replace only that part, then run the baseline again with the new part to confirm.
- Nothing changed with any swap, but it charges wirelessly. The external chain and the battery are working, so the wired path into the phone is the suspect. Go back to cleaning once more, then see the port signs in the last section.
- The icon appears in every test but the percentage barely moves or falls. The phone is getting power but using it as fast as it arrives, or a setting is holding it back. The next section covers this.
- Nothing works: no icon, no wireless charging, not even a red light. The problem is likely inside the phone. Go straight to the last section.
“Plugged In” But Not Rising: Software and Power Draw
When your phone says charging but the percentage isn’t going up, power is reaching it but isn’t being stored. iFixit explains that if the phone is using a lot of energy, it will seem to charge slowly or not at all “because the power consumption rate is close to the charge rate,” and you may notice the phone getting hot. T-Mobile’s list of causes for this symptom covers background apps, low-wattage chargers like older USB ports, and overheating.
The easiest way to test whether your charger is functional is to do nothing. Close all of your apps, lock your screen, place your phone in a cool area while connected to your best charger and outlet and leave it alone for some time. If the charging percentage increases while the phone is unutilized yet halts when you are using it, this indicates that the charger is functioning correctly as you are consuming power at the same or faster rate than the charger can provide power to your phone. In particular, Android Authority points out that utilizing a phone for gaming while charging will increase the amount of power consumed and therefore slow down charging.
The solution to your problem may involve finding an app that drains your battery if your phone freezes even when you’re not using it. Android Authority’s steps should be used: (a) Go to Settings > Battery and view battery usage; (b) In the battery usage screen, look for any apps that may be using more battery than they should; and (c) If you notice a significant increase, slide the ‘View by apps‘ drop-down menu to ‘View by systems‘ and you should find many of the apps that are consuming significant power. If you notice that the problem has appeared suddenly, iFixit suggests checking for updated apps. You can do this by: (a) opening the Play Store and tapping on your profile icon; (b) selecting Manage apps and device; (c) opening the Manage tab and sorting it by Recently updated. Any app that appears on both lists should be your prime suspect.
Another common reason for a phone to ‘freeze’ is due to high temperatures. According to Android Authority, as phones heat up, they will slow down the rate of charging to protect themselves. Samsung says charging may be limited when the phone or the room is too hot or too cold, and Google recommends that Pixel phones should be charged at approximately 25°C in a cooler, moderate-temperature environment. If you are charging your phone in direct sunlight, or under a pillow, or in a hot car, there is a good chance that it was designed that way, as an energy-saving measure.
If the percentage always stops at the same number, check for a charge limit before blaming the battery. On Samsung Galaxy phones, Samsung’s Protect battery feature is under Settings > Battery > Protect battery. It’s off by default, limits charging to 85% when turned on, and shows “Charging paused. Protect battery limits you to 85%.” On Pixel 6a and later, Google’s Limit to 80% option is under Settings > Battery > Battery health > Charging optimisation. Pixels also limit charging to about 70–80% on their own after hours of charging in high heat or several days of constant charging. You’ll see a “Protecting your battery” notification, and there’s a Charge to full link in the Battery settings to override it. On other brands, iFixit suggests looking in battery settings for something called Hold Charge or Battery Protection.
If you performed the actions above and your device still does not function correctly, perform a Device Restart as the last resort. It will assist with resolving the issue, but it is not a test of functionality. Google’s instruction is to hold the Power button for 5-7 seconds. For Samsung users, Samsung says to press and hold the Power and Volume Down buttons until the device restarts; however, each model may vary slightly regarding which buttons to press.
A factory reset is the very last step in software troubleshooting and should only be done if all other options fail. Remember that performing a factory reset will delete everything on your device, so if you do decide to do it, make sure to have a backup of your data (photos, chat logs, files). According to Android Authority, if you have performed a factory reset and are still experiencing slow charge time, it is likely a hardware issue. If backing up your data is not possible, do not perform the factory reset and contact a technician to determine if your device has any physical damage that is causing it to charge slowly.
Signs of Battery or Port Failure
Considering the potential cause of the charging issue with your phone is either a failed charging port or a software problem; most likely the reason for the charging issue lies within the phone’s internal components. The signs that your charging port may be malfunctioning are generally visible on the outside of the device. As mentioned by iFixit’s guide, if any of the following conditions exist, then it is highly probable that your charging port is malfunctioning: if there is visible damage, burns, or if after cleaning the port, the connection with the charger still feels loose or must be held in position in order to charge; and if your records show that you have used multiple charging cables that all charged other devices with no problems. The conclusion that the charging port is malfunctioning is also based on your charging test results and can further be confirmed by a technician using a USB ammeter, as recommended by iFixit’s guide, to check the amount of current being drawn through the charging port.
In conclusion, if you have determined that your charging port is indeed malfunctioning, there are several options available for getting it repaired depending on the specific model of your device. As noted by iFixit, some charging ports are located on a separate circuit board that can be easily replaced, while others are soldered directly to the main circuit board. Before you proceed with any repairs, Android Authority recommends you first check with your warranty or insurance provider, since the process to replace a charging port can be very complicated and cost prohibitive. This guide does not provide any price estimates for the cost of repairs in Nigeria; please obtain a quote for the repair before committing to any repairs.
The battery wear of your phone can best be determined using your phone’s diagnostic method. For all Google Pixel 8a or newer phones, you can find the diagnostic method by going to the phone’s settings, finding “Battery,” and then selecting “Battery Health.” The health status will say “Normal” or “Reduced” when the battery has dropped below 80% of capacity, and when that happens, you should replace it. The cycle count will be found under “About Phone,” then “Battery Information.” Google estimates that Pixel 8a or newer phones will retain up to 80% of their charge capacity for around 1,000 cycles, while Pixel 3 through Pixel 8 Pro phones will retain approximately 800 cycles of battery charge capacity. Once a phone reaches the 80% capacity point, that model will no longer produce a battery health status. This means that the absence of a Battery Health menu on models 6a, 7, 7 Pro, 7a, 8, and 8 Pro is entirely normal and that there are no issues with the battery of those models. With Samsung phones, you can check the Samsung Members Phone diagnostics test (Support, then Get Started, then Battery Status) for the status of the battery on that model. The battery health on Samsung phones is determined by a rating of Normal, Weak, or Bad. If a Samsung Member’s diagnosis indicates Bad for a Samsung phone, the user should visit a Samsung Service Centre. iFixit suggests looking under Battery for Battery Health or Battery Status for any other Phone associating brands.
Please remember that if you have a completely dead phone, it can be due to a dead battery. Google says to check the battery status of the Pixel phone, adhere to the following procedure: Connect the phone to a working charger, charging cable, and power outlet. Once attached, allow the device a minute before turning it back on. Viewing the red light means the battery is dead and needs charging. If the light is blinking, it means that the phone does not have enough power to turn on at that moment, and the user should keep charging for 30 minutes, then try turning it on. If there is no battery symbol and no light on the battery icon, Google states that: “Your phone may not be charging due to an issue with the screen instead of with the battery.”
When a battery is swollen, then no troubleshooting will continue. According to iFixit, these signs of swelling include: a case no longer fits, a new gap between the screen and body, buttons feel stiff, the phone feels “squishy,” or a sweet metallic smell (or acetone). iFixit states that you can’t charge or use the device. Google’s guidance states that swelling “by itself” is not a safety issue, but that because of a lifted screen water and dust can enter the phone and a battery that is exposed to heat can become an injury hazard. Both sources agree what NOT to do with a swollen battery: do not try to press the screen back down, do not pry the phone open, do not try to fix it yourself, and do not throw your phone in the trash. Take it to an authorized service center and make sure to bring your swap log so the technician can have all of the information about what you’ve already checked.
If It’s Still Not Working
When a phone does not pass a swap test using known-good parts, it is an indication of an internal fault. Therefore, you will need to take it to an authorised service centre. The best thing that you can do to help the technician is to create a detailed log of the tests you performed. This will include which socket, charger, and cable were used, as well as what the phone did after each test. A handy little log helps the technician find the fault in the phone more quickly than starting from scratch, and protects you from having to pay for a new battery when the actual problem was a faulty port, or for a new port when the fault was due to a cheap cable that could have been replaced earlier by you.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does “Liquid or debris in USB port” mean on my phone?
Google says the phone has detected moisture or debris and paused the port. Unplug it, and if the port is wet, turn the phone off and let it dry at room temperature. Contact support if the message lasts two hours or more.
Can I blow into the charging port to clear it?
No. iFixit warns that moisture from your breath can damage the port’s contacts. Tap the phone gently against your palm with the port facing down, or use a dust blower pointed at one corner of the port.
Are apps like AccuBattery useful for this?
iFixit mentions AccuBattery and Ampere are apps that will allow you to monitor your mobile device’s battery health and how fast it charges. They provide additional information to help you compare those readings to what’s recorded in your swap log. Other than AccuBattery and Ampere, check your phone for built-in battery health diagnostic features.
